Editorial

The Kiosk That Refused to Disappear

Puffer-Imbiss, Hermannplatz

Berlin changes quickly.

Restaurants come and go, rents rise, neighbourhoods transform, and familiar places quietly disappear. That is why the closure of a small potato pancake stand on Hermannplatz last winter felt surprisingly significant.

Puffer-Imbiss had operated there since 1985. For decades, it remained one of the last distinctly old-Berlin institutions in a part of Neukölln increasingly defined by shisha bars, döner shops, and new arrivals. Even people who had never started their day with a potato pancake felt something was being lost.

Fortunately, the story did not end there.

During the summer, the kiosk reopened under new ownership. Georg, the previous owner, handed the business over to Michael König, a man who looks remarkably similar to his predecessor and seems equally committed to preserving the spirit of the place.

Apart from a new grey exterior — required by local authorities to better match the historic Karstadt building nearby — very little has changed. The menu remains the same. So do the customers.

And the customers are part of the attraction.

Standing in line, you'll find yourself surrounded by Neukölln's old guard discussing politics, rising food prices, and everyday neighbourhood affairs. It may well be the highest concentration of German-speaking Berliners within several kilometres. Tourists are notably absent.

Michael himself contributes to the atmosphere. While taking my order, he casually informed me that he needed to drive to Spandau later that evening. Nobody had asked, but somehow that felt entirely appropriate.

A giant potato pancake with herb sour cream and an Eierkuchen topped with cherries and vanilla cream at Puffer-Imbiss

The food follows the same philosophy.

The menu offers only two options: Kartoffelpuffer — giant potato pancakes served with apple sauce or herb sour cream — and Eierkuchen, a traditional sweet German pancake large enough to challenge most appetites.

The potato pancakes are famously oversized, often compared to wagon wheels. Golden, slightly uneven, generously fried, and unapologetically old-fashioned, they taste exactly like the kind of food that generations of Berliners grew up eating.

The Eierkuchen is even larger. Folded in half simply because it cannot fit on the plate otherwise, it makes no attempt to imitate a French crêpe. It is straightforward, comforting, and entirely unconcerned with culinary trends.

At five euros per dish, both remain among the best-value meals in the city. Coffee costs €1.50 and somehow tastes more expensive.

What makes Puffer-Imbiss special isn't culinary innovation.

It's continuity.

In a city obsessed with the new, this small kiosk offers something increasingly rare: the feeling that not everything has to change.

And for Berlin, that feels worth celebrating.