Editorial

Where Tahini Is the Main Character

AVIV 030, Neukölln

Hi, I'm Katya. If you've read my work before, you already know: sooner or later, everything comes back to plates and restaurants.

Today we're in Neukölln, on Richardstraße. A century and a half ago, this area was known as Böhmisch-Rixdorf, a village settled by migrants from Bohemia. One of the original farmhouses still stands at number 79. You could spend an afternoon wondering whether its current owners still carry Czech surnames, or what it feels like to live in the middle of modern Neukölln. Or you could walk thirty metres down the street to AVIV 030.

Opened five years ago, AVIV serves contemporary Middle Eastern cuisine that leans closer to Tel Aviv than Damascus. A recent menu and wine list update gave me the perfect excuse to visit.

In Middle Eastern restaurants, mezze are the real test. If the starters disappoint, you might as well leave. Here, they quietly reassure you from the first bite: relax, you're in good hands.

The hummus is almost textbook-perfect — silky, comforting, and just a little more tahini-forward than usual. A pool of olive oil, glossy pickles, green chilli on top. Nothing feels unnecessary.

The muhammara delivers sweetness, acidity, and depth through roasted peppers and pomegranate molasses, while pistachios bring texture and richness. It's the kind of dish that disappears from the table faster than expected.

My favourite, however, was the baba ghanoush. The eggplant flavour remains clean and unmistakable, while dehydrated mint crisps add an unexpected crunch and freshness that completely transforms the dish.

Short ribs with giant butter beans and whole trout at AVIV 030

For mains, the short ribs arrive with giant buttery beans — a combination so timeless it feels like something local farmers might have cooked on this very street two centuries ago. Rich, slow-cooked meat paired with simple ingredients executed perfectly.

The trout is delicate and beautifully cooked, accompanied by mustard seeds and a salad reminiscent of a Caesar. The creamy dressing occasionally competes with the fish, but never enough to throw the dish off balance.

By this point, a spectacular-looking köfte landed on the neighbouring table, raising an important question: where exactly is one supposed to find room for more food?

A guest at AVIV 030 with a glass of Riesling

Everything was paired with an excellent Riesling. As it turns out, Riesling and Middle Eastern cuisine make a surprisingly convincing partnership.

For dessert, a chocolate truffle arrives draped in tahini — a fitting finale for a restaurant where tahini quietly connects almost every chapter of the story.

Some restaurants impress with innovation. Others simply make you feel good. AVIV belongs firmly to the second category.